How to repair plank floors in the country


During operation, the boards of plank floors can dry out, deform, rot. Therefore, in all these cases, repairs are necessary. And the durability of the floor depends on how it is executed ...

Sealing cracks, cracks ...

If cracks have formed between the floorboards, gaps up to 5 millimeters wide, then they can be repaired without disassembling the floor. To do this, clean the cracks and cracks from the old putty. Then take a twine or thin rope (not nylon), put it in a jar of wood glue or in a 15% solution of drying oil. And when it is completely saturated, then tamp the rope into the slot with a chisel, screwdriver, spatula. Let it dry for at least a day.

Prepare a thick putty or putty. For this purpose, you can use the following compositions:
A) 1 part sawdust and 1 part oil putty (by volume)
B) 5 parts of sawdust, 5 parts of cement (any brand), 2 parts of wood glue and 14-15 parts of water

When the cord (rope) embedded in the gap is dry, fill the gap well. And then thoroughly clean the floor: first with a large, then with a fine sandpaper, screwing it onto a wooden block. Then paint the floor.

Bitumen is also suitable for sealing cracks and cracks. The resin must be heated to a liquid state and poured into the cracks. If there is a void under the gap, then it is necessary to caulk the gap with any material. Cut off beads from above to be flush with the floor. After the bitumen has hardened, paint over with paint. It will dissolve, that is, as it were, will compact the bitumen. After that, paint again.

Picture 1

It is convenient to paint over cracks and crevices using a stencil. It is cut out of cardboard or thick paper. The putty is applied on a stencil and fills only cracks, without staining the rest of the floor.

Pulling the floor together

If the gaps are more than 5 millimeters, then the floor must be rallied. To do this, you first need to remove the skirting boards, after which, with a crowbar or an ax, raise each board by 3-5 cm and with the blows of the butt of an ax or a large hammer set it in place so that the heads of the nails protrude outward. And pull them out with pliers or a nail puller. Having thus freed 3-4 boards from the nails, we rally (squeeze) them with the help of wedges. That is, we hammer in wedges between the extreme free boards and the nailed ones. After rallying, the boards are tightly nailed to the logs-crossbars. The heads of nails must be sunk by 2-3 millimeters.

In a warped (deformed) board, nails are driven into the raised part at an angle so as to align it. If, after rallying, a free space forms in the floor, then the missing board or part of the board should be inserted into it, always made of dry material. After rallying the floor, irregularities in the joints are smoothed out. The same operation is also performed when the floors are warped due to uneven drying or wear, or when old floors are prepared for painting.

Figure 2.
1 - floor boards;
2 - cement mortar or bitumen;
3 - lags-crossbars;
4 - soil

Before stripping, carefully examine the floor, deepen the heads of all nails and carefully cut off the protruding knots. Planks are planed along, across, obliquely. Skirting boards are nailed to the walls, not to the floorboards. The skirting boards attached to the walls create a frame around the entire perimeter, preventing warping and swelling of the floor. The skirting boards are nailed directly to the wooden walls with nails one meter apart. In stone walls, holes are punched with a bolt or drilled with a depth of 10-12 cm, into which wooden or plastic plugs are inserted. And skirting boards are already nailed to them.

Replacing boards

If one end of a floor board has rotted or broken off, it is not at all necessary to remove and replace the entire board. You just need to chop off with a chisel or saw off the spoiled end. In order to saw off, you need to take a hand vise, clamp a piece of a hacksaw blade in them for metal and saw off the end of the board. If it is impossible to start the cut from the edge, drill a narrow slot anywhere on the board so that you can insert the end of the piece of the hacksaw blade into it and cut in the desired direction. A new piece must be nailed to at least two cross-beams.

When replacing a damaged board in grooved floors, cut off the ridge (ledge) in the adjacent board and, slightly lifting this board, lay a new one instead of the damaged one.

If the floor creaks

Between the floorboards that squeak, at an angle of 45o, drill a hole with a diameter of 6-8 mm and drive a wooden cork into it with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the hole (Fig. 1). Pre-grease the cork with wood glue or BF glue. And cut off the protruding tip with a knife, chisel or planer. And putty and clean this place.

You can get rid of the squeak in another way. Drill a through hole with a diameter of 18-20 mm in the floor and fill it with cement mortar or heated bitumen so that, spreading under the floorboard, they quickly solidify in the form of an overflow and become the support of the floorboard (Fig. 2). The hole can be filled with a wooden cork, sanded and painted over. But remember that this method works when you have a double floor, or the floor is very close to the ground.

In order for the floor to last a long time, the underground must always be well ventilated ... Be sure to leave ventilation windows. In summer they should always be open to dry the floor. But it is necessary to place them at such a height that surface water does not flow underground through them. And so that rats and mice do not penetrate through the windows into the underground, close them up with a fine metal mesh.

A properly repaired floor will be very reliable and will last for many years ...

A. Nosov


How to install porcelain stoneware tiles on wood floors

We are asked:
TO How to install porcelain stoneware on wood floors? Board 100 × 50.

We answer:
In this case, the tiles can only be glued with synthetic glue (like the same "liquid nails"). When using ordinary tile glue, prepared from a dry mixture, the board will take moisture away from the glue, which is not good: the boards will swell, warp, and the mixture will lose its homogeneity. As a result, the tile will fly off, if not immediately, then after a short time.

On the other hand, plank floors, as a rule, have unacceptable drops for tiles and to level them with expensive "synthetics" means to make the floors truly "golden".

What is the way out? There are two of them:
1) - Level the floor with a "dry screed". Why do we use DSP sheets (cement-bonded particle board) and plastic screws of the adjustable floor system. Lay the tiles on the cement-bonded particle board on the mixture mixed with water. We use mixtures for laying on an unstable base (type CM-117 from Ceresit or others, similar).

The disadvantages are obvious: the wood floor can be affected by fungus. But even without this, it has a deliberately shorter service life than a tiled coating. Moreover, with impaired ventilation of the underground space. Over time, it will begin to bend, and the tiles, accordingly, crack and fly off. In addition, the work is quite complex, and the materials are not cheap.

2) - Disassemble the wood flooring. If necessary, make a concrete base under the floors (if the wooden floor is arranged on a subgrade), or a leveling screed. This option gives such advantages as a higher durability of the construct, reliability, lower cost of materials (including due to the return of materials from disassembly), finally, the height of the room increases, which is usually pleasing.

The downside is the higher labor intensity, and, accordingly, the duration of the work. In addition, the height of the underfloor space can be too high, which will require backfill.


How to make wooden plank floors in the country?

The sequence of installation on the logs of the plank floor in the country is as follows:

  1. a high-quality fired red brick is taken and the aforementioned column is made with a section of 25 by 25 cm and a height of about 14 cm (or packed in the formwork in place of concrete)
  2. it should be borne in mind that each column should be located perpendicular to the lag - the floor support beam
  3. the distance between two brick pillars located along the log should be equal to 90-110 cm
  4. a double layer of roofing material (film) is first laid on the post, then a wooden gasket (parameters: 2.5 x 10-15 x 20-25 cm), the latter must be treated with an antiseptic, as well as lags in subsequent steps
  5. do not forget to keep an eye on the "horizon"
  6. the logs themselves are located parallel to the wall with the windows, their height - usually 4-5 centimeters, it must be borne in mind that the distance between the extreme floor support beams and the walls should be 3 cm
  7. distance between the axes of the log - 50 cm
  8. for flooring in the country, a grooved dry board is taken (width - 15 centimeters, thickness - 4 (you should not take it thinner)), whose lower plane and sides are treated with an antiseptic, and cut so that the length of each board is less than the length of the room by 2 or 3 centimeters
  9. floor boards are joined along the log
  10. installation of a plinth, painting or laying of linoleum at will.

Such properly installed floors in the country are expensive and single-layer, but their reliability pays for the price in full.


Output


Preserving the brilliant beauty of a valuable tree can only be done by choosing the right care products.

Now, having learned the recommendations and tips, you can easily clean the floor with a brilliant result, and admire the well-groomed wooden floor for a long time. And now I propose to get acquainted with the video in this article - it contains a clear example of how to wash such a flooring. We can discuss your questions and ideas in the comments - write!


Wooden floor

The choice of wood flooring is influenced by the style in which you are going to decorate the house. A massive board is chosen to reproduce old cottages and estates. It is great for loft-style rooms. Block-type parquet flooring imitates the classic style (the same estates, but on a grand scale). Parquet board is the most democratic option. She fits into almost any style direction.

Massive floorboard: selection and preparation for installation

Economy class flooring is made from coniferous sawn timber (spruce, pine, larch). We will not consider hard, but due to the high cost, oak, ash, and exotic woods that are rarely used for this purpose. Pine and larch floors are more practical and durable. The price for a solid board ranges from 17 to 24 thousand rubles. for 1 cubic meter m and depends on the type and type of wood. The floorboard is produced in standard sizes: 42x140 mm, 42x120 mm (very rare), 38x140 mm, 38x120 mm, 32x120 mm, 32x100 mm, 28x120 mm, 28x10 mm with a length of 3-6 m. It is better to choose a board with a larger thickness and a smaller width - it warps less and is more reliable in operation.

Wood with a moisture content of 16-18% is taken into production, then it is dried in natural conditions to a moisture content of 12%. Further, the massive board goes on sale, and no one controls its humidity. As a result, the floor, mounted from such slats, dries up, jumps out of the grooves. To avoid such problems, after purchase, the board must be brought to working humidity (no more than 8%) - directly in the room where the finishing work is planned. This is done as follows. Boards are laid along the logs with a gap of 5-10 mm, but at first they are not attached to them, but are fixed from above with transverse bars along the edges and in the middle. The crossbars must be grabbed along the edges with screws. Now please be patient, as the final drying takes a long time: from two months to six months. To determine when the boards are dry to 8% moisture, use a needle moisture meter, it is inexpensive. After that, you can proceed with the installation.

Solid flooring: installation

When laying solid plank floors, pay attention to the end rings - they should be located with the bowl up. In this position, the floorboard holds on to the logs more firmly and then, during operation, squeaks less. The distance between the lags should be no more than 70 cm (with a board thickness of 42–38 mm), but if the thickness of the floor slat is 32–28 mm, the distance is reduced to 60 cm. To preserve the decorative surface of the board, it is screwed with screws at an angle behind the spike comb - this method allows you to avoid touching the screws and not spoiling the appearance of the floor during scraping. The finishing coat for the board is polyurethane varnishes, oil-wax mastics, floor enamels.

Solid flooring: umove

The most important condition for sanitary cleaning and operation is to prevent excessive wetting of surfaces. Wooden floors cannot be washed in the sea (poured out a bucket of water and smeared the dirt with a mop) - after cleaning, the board must be wiped dry. The massif, which has collected excess moisture, will swell, create pressure on the adjacent floorboards, and when it dries, it shrinks - as a result, the seams will disperse. If, nevertheless, this happened, and there is no possibility of pulling the floor, fill the voids with a sealant for parquet and laminate (Soidal, POLY-R, Kimtec)... The sealants have a wide range of colors, they adhere well to the joints and eliminate squeaks.

Block parquet: selection and installation

This is the most decorative type of wood flooring, because each parquet floor has its own unique texture and shade. The material is produced from solid solid wood of valuable species (oak, ash, mahogany, pear, beech). Parquet floors have a noble origin, but they are more difficult to install, moreover, they are capricious and require delicate handling.

Block parquet can only be installed in rooms with consistently low humidity. It can be based on a concrete screed, rough wooden floor or frame plywood flooring. On wooden bases, parquet floors are fixed with small nails and polymer glue, on concrete ones - with the help of rubber-bitumen mastic, which is used to lubricate the inside of the parquet floor. After laying, the decorative surface of the planks is putty and cycled, then covered with polyurethane-based parquet varnishes or treated with wax-oil mastic heated to + 60 ° C.

Block parquet: care

Caring for parquet is reduced to removing dust and dirt, while the surface can be moistened no more than once a week. Neutral cleaners (cleaners) do not destroy the finish (wax or varnish), but the waxed surface must be periodically renewed with a mastic that is rubbed in and polished with a woolen cloth. Still, the best care for your parquet floor is prevention. Avoid the accumulation of sand, remove fresh dirt in a timely manner.

Parquet board: choice

Convenient, good option for finished flooring. As a rule, such a board is made from hard wood: oak, walnut, ash, wenge, mahogany. The buyer has a large selection of colors and surface textures. A parquet board is a multi-layer cake that consists of a carrier layer and a decorative surface. When choosing a material, pay attention to the thickness of the upper decorative layer - it should be at least 3-5 mm (during operation, parquet, like any other floor covering, will wear out, it will have to be scraped and re-varnished, therefore the thickness of the "working" surface is very important ). The load-bearing base of a parquet board is almost always made of simple conifers. It should consist of several layers of wood, the texture of which is perpendicular to each other - this gives the glued structure rigidity and elasticity in all directions.

Companies Tarkett, Quick step, Barlinek and others adhere to uniform standards in board sizes and mounts, which, of course, is convenient. On average, the price of parquet flooring is from 2500 to 6000 rubles per 1 sq. m and depends on the decorativeness and reliability of the top layer.

Parquet board: installation

Parquet floor - floating structure. The board is laid on a special polyurethane foam base.The main condition for competent work is a flat base, which can be concrete, plywood, or wood. You can not put a parquet board on a wet concrete screed - the wood will pick up moisture and warp (it will bend like a boat). The boat will pump the coating for another reason: if there is no transverse layer in the board, or it is there, but too thin. The floor parts are fastened together with special locks at the ends and edges.

Parquet board: care

The parquet board can withstand light damp cleaning. On sale there are special liquid care products for the material - they are dissolved in water, and then they wipe the floor with a rag soaked in this composition. The product creates a protective film on the coating.


Repair of plank floors

Plank floors in a wooden house require repair over time. In the course of long-term use, floorboards wear out, begin to creak, gaps form between them, and sometimes they even begin to bend. These floors need to be renovated.

How to repair painted plank floors?

Repair of plank floors consists in moving worn-out boards from places of intensive walking to the walls, where they are practically intact, that is, to change their places. To do this, you need to tear off all the boards, clean their edges, and, if necessary, plan or flatten them. First, the boards are folded in rows, achieving the most tight abutment of the edges, inaccuracies are corrected, marked, and then they begin to lay.

When the floors in a wooden house are being repaired, it is possible to inspect the condition of the beams and logs. If necessary, they should be corrected and aligned.

Floor boards are attached to beams or logs in two ways: simple, when nails are driven in from the front side of the board, and parquet, when nails are driven into the corner of the ridge, i.e. at an angle of 45 °, and the caps are sunk into the wood.

During the repair of plank floors, it is necessary to ensure that the gap between the boards is as small as possible (no more than 1 mm). To do this, after the first board is laid and nailed, the second board is laid side by side, but not nailed. At a distance of about 100-150 mm from it, a bracket is driven into a beam or lag, and wedges are hammered between the bracket and the board until the board is pressed tightly against the previously nailed one. And only then the board is nailed, flattening the heads of the nails and sinking them to a depth of 3-5 mm.

In the process of repairing plank floors, it is sometimes necessary to eliminate the deflection of the boards. The reason for the deflection can be too thin flooring or sparsely laid joists or beams. In this case, dry boards ("help") with a thickness of at least 40 mm should be laid between them. They must be fastened exactly at the same level with the lags or beams.

If you need to add new boards to repair plank floors, then you need to choose the driest ones. Otherwise, gaps will form between the boards as they dry out. In general, repair of plank floors should be started at the end of the heating season, when the boards are well dry. They can absorb a lot of moisture over the summer.

If the floorboards are badly worn out, then the repair of the floors should be carried out as follows: the back side of the boards, having previously processed with a plane, is made front. Re-lay the floor, laying the boards with the worn side down. Sometimes, it will be necessary to put roofing material or even wedges under them.

The cleanest boards, without chips, knots and other defects, are laid in living rooms, and with defects in auxiliary rooms and corridors.

There are faster ways to repair plank floors - without re-flooring. For example, you can not open the floor, but insert thin slats into the cracks formed. Sometimes the cracks are covered with oil putty or cement mortar with glue. It should be noted right away that such repair methods are short-lived. Reiki can fall out or bulge, and the putty breaks down over time.

Once the floors have been repaired, they should be painted as painted plank floors require less maintenance.


If you own your own house outside the city, then you have already come across the fact that the roof collapses over time, and you have to repair the roof. The roof must not only be reliable, but also very beautiful. A lot depends on the strength and tightness of the roof, because thermal insulation throughout the house depends on these parameters, besides, the roof protects you from precipitation. The main elements of the roof: rafters, trusses, roofing, and it can be made of roofing steel, roofing material, tiles, roofing. Asbestos-cement sheets can be flat or wavy, in other words, the quality of the roof depends on many characteristics.

During the repair, you need to replace the damaged sections of the roof, reinforce them with new materials, and so on. The most common damage to the roof is the following: the sheets are cracked due to the powerful pressure of the fastening screws, due to which the fastening to the base takes place. Another problem also arises: the diameter of the holes for the fastening screws is noticeably narrowed, and the diameter of the screw must be the same as that of the hole. Least of all, problems with the roof appear due to poor-quality transportation of slate sheets. In this case, the repair will take a lot of time, because you will have to change whole sheets or deformed areas to process with jute or fiberglass, which is pre-impregnated with mastic. The patch should be ten centimeters wider than the deformed area, and it is not difficult to prepare the slate sheets, since they can be trimmed with a metal file. When moving on a slate roof, it is advisable to use a ladder that has transverse linings, as this will reduce the risk of cracks.

If the roof is made of sheets of durable steel, then the main problem that you will face will be the appearance of rust, and then leaks. Together with rust, you need to thoroughly clean everything with kerosene and water, and then wipe this place with sandpaper. Then you need to paint with linseed oil and wait until they dry. Next, apply the primer composition in a thin layer, and then use an oil paint of the same color as that of galvanized steel. If you notice cracks and holes, then you need to weld them with stylish patches so that rust does not reappear. The whole process of work is as follows: clean the joints with sandpaper or a metal brush to get rid of old paint, rust and grease. Next, attach the sheets, and then wet the brush in zinc chloride and clean the surfaces that you will connect. The ends of the sheets must be connected with a soldering iron, but first rub the hot soldering iron with ammonia, while working, be careful and careful. The excess that remains after working with a soldering iron must be sawed off with a file after everything has cooled down.

Many people prepare zinc chloride themselves, but it must be borne in mind that parts of zinc are first dipped into a container with hydrochloric acid, this is a very important stage. You cannot do everything the other way around, otherwise a chemical reaction will occur, which will lead to an explosion and chemical burns on the body.

Next, you need to do the repair of walls and chimneys. It has long been proven that water enters the house most often through the junction of the chimney and the roof, and a television antenna is also located at this place. Therefore, experts recommend in these places to create protection in the form of cladding from the roof, it is made of steel sheets. Thanks to this, the water will easily drain onto the roof, and then enter the downpipes with gutters. Then you need to change the roof in the cottage, if necessary. This is very difficult to do, because you can damage the finish in a particular room or damage the equipment. It doesn't matter what material you are going to use, you need to prepare an accurate plan for all the work, otherwise you will have leaks in the future. It is advisable to find a construction company with positive reviews so that you have a roof installed in compliance with all the rules.


Watch the video: How to Fix a Bent or Raised Up Edge on your Luxury Vinyl Plank Flooring


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