Almost all plants can be propagated in several ways. Violets are no exception. In the previous part, we examined in detail the most popular method - propagation of violets by cuttings. But not every method is suitable for preserving the characteristics of the flower. For example, propagating violets by cuttings, it is impossible to preserve the varietal characteristics of the flower. Therefore, they use a different method. In this part we will look at three alternative methods. Let's start?
Adult Saintpaulias, growing, give new bushes. These rosettes sometimes even interfere with the main bush, taking up space. Therefore, it is possible, and sometimes necessary, to separate them.
We carefully dig out the socket with a short sharp knife, trying not to injure the mother plant as much as possible. It is desirable that there are several roots on a young bush. If there are many leaves, but few roots, cut off some of the leaves.
You need to plant a new bush in a smaller pot. The soil can be taken exactly the same as under the mother plant. Watering should be done in moderation, without flooding the flower. Protect from sunlight. The room should be warm, so it is best to divide the bush in the summer. Then the mother's violet, with which you took the baby, will recover faster.
With this method, it is possible to preserve the varietal qualities of Saintpaulia. But not every gardener you know will agree to give you part of a bush, unless he is your relative.
Therefore, I propose another breeding method suitable for growing chimera violets.
This method is used for breeding hybrid varietal violets, which have an unusual flower color and leaf shape. Indeed, when the leaf is germinated, varietal qualities are not transferred.
So, we root a stepson or a peduncle. To do this, we separate the most beautiful and healthy peduncle, similar to a small tree (do not regret, a new one will soon grow). Cut off its lower part obliquely (45˚). The distance from the cut to the stipules (small leaves) should be 1-2 cm.
Pinch off flowers and buds. Then we plant the peduncle in sphagnum in a small glass (4-6 cm). Pour with warm, settled water. We set up a greenhouse, which we sometimes open a little to ventilate the plant.
Small leaves usually appear in 1.5-2 months. When they reach a size of 2-3 cm, we transplant the violet into a permanent pot.
It is quite difficult to grow a violet from seeds, but many have tested this method on themselves. By the way, this is how I grew varietal gloxinia (and she, like the violet, from the Gesneriaceae family), which then bloomed successfully.
Seed propagation allows you to grow a new variety of violetsby ordering seeds on the Internet, because not all localities have specialized stores or girlfriends suffering from violet addiction.
Violets from seeds are grown according to the seedling principle. First, a seed sprouts (in a mixture of peat and moss). The germination container should be shallow. We arrange a greenhouse over the seeds. We grow until the first leaves appear, and then transplanted into a pot.
For those who like to experiment, there is an even more complicated method in which you need to get the seeds yourself. To do this, using a broken toothpick or a blunt end of a needle, transfer the pollen from the stamen to the pistil. You can just gently pinch off the stamen and shake off the pollen on the pistil, on which a drop of liquid has come out.
If the pollination was successful, then in 7-10 days you will see an ovary. But this is just the beginning. It takes 6-9 months for the seeds to ripen in the ovary. And only if the microclimate is favorable, and the care is correct, then the seed pods-pods will ripen. Each contains 100-300 seeds. Well, then you need to germinate them like seedlings.
Florists love begonias for their luxurious appearance and relative unpretentiousness. There are over 1000 species of decorative leafy and flowering begonias in the world. In indoor floriculture, the following are common: Mason, Elatior (flowering), royal, ever-flowering, as well as other varieties of blooming and decorative leafy home beauty. How to propagate begonia at home, which methods are the most rational and provide 100% plant survival.
Like any wild species, wild garlic takes root only in conditions that are as similar as possible to places of natural distribution. This wild onion is found naturally in deciduous forests, in clearings, in wetlands, does not like open spaces. Natural reproduction of the species is by seeds, which independently disperse over the ground in summer and autumn. Seedlings appear next spring from seeds that lie throughout the winter. Covered with grass and leaves, the grains can withstand frost. Therefore, it is advised to propagate wild garlic with seeds that have undergone stratification. They are placed in a substrate in a refrigerator for 80-90 days. Some experts insist that wild garlic seeds do not have a dormant period, and such a technique is not needed for plant breeding.
There are certain difficulties in breeding wild bear onions. Seeds harvested in summer and autumn have a short germination duration. Adjusting to the natural schedule, it is better to plant wild garlic seeds before winter. Sowing seeds in spring will produce half the number of sprouts than the sealed seeds. Seedlings may appear even after a year, so it is better to mark the sown area and not process.
Many gardeners note that the bear onion already growing on the site was propagated by dividing the bush. In this case, this method is easier than growing wild garlic from seeds at home. It is necessary to carefully dig out the wild garlic bush so that all the roots growing from the bulb are preserved, preferably with an earthen clod. Divided into individual bulbs and immediately planted in wells prepared and spilled with water. Reproduction of wild garlic by bulbs is possible only in those areas where the endemic grows. A crop transported within a few hours loses moisture from small roots, and more often dies in a new area.
Hippeastrum is a flowering perennial bulbous plant. The shape of the bulb is round, in rare cases - conical, it includes a thick short stem and closed scales. Depending on the species, the diameter of the bulb can reach 50–100 mm. They have cordlike roots on the bottom (base), collected in a bunch. Placed in 2 opposite rows, linear leaf plates reach 0.5–0.7 m in length and only 40–50 mm in width. Their front surface is grooved, and the seamy surface is keeled. They are green in color, but in some varieties it can be crimson. The height of the hollow, leafless cylindrical peduncle is from 0.35 to 0.8 m, an umbrella is formed on it, which consists of 2–6 bisexual flowers reaching up to 25 centimeters across and about 13–15 centimeters long. Tubular or funnel-shaped flowers have long petioles and various colors, for example: deep red, pink, dark red, orange, white, etc. The fruit is an angular or spherical tricuspid box containing small seeds. Freshly harvested seeds have a very high germination rate (almost 100%).
If you want hippeastrum to decorate your home, as well as grow and develop within the normal range, then you must definitely remember several features of such a culture:
The horned violet is a perennial plant, but this does not mean that it is eternal, so it needs to be rejuvenated from time to time.
Even if the violet is still young, any yellow or damaged leaves must be removed. Not everyone will like a completely bare stem, but this is a necessary measure that will lead to a good result.
What is rerooting? If the violet has lost its former appearance, has become not so fresh or has begun to grow to one side, a long, ugly naked leg has appeared, which cannot be saved by deepening, then it needs to be re-rooted. This method is suitable for plants over three years old.
This will allow you to rejuvenate the violet, grow it to get stepchildren, save the plant from disease or root decay.
The procedure is as follows: injured or wilted leaves come off, sometimes you have to remove the entire bottom row if there are a lot of leaves. Places from where the leaves were torn off are covered with activated carbon. With a blade or knife, the plant is cut off at a distance of 1 cm from the bottom row, the stalk is protected with the blunt side of the knife. After that, the violet can be rooted in a fresh earthy mixture.
Leaf propagation is only one method, it is very popular because is the simplest and least time consuming. But some varieties of Uzambar violets cannot be propagated in this way, there will be a loss of varietal properties. In such cases, you can use other methods.
This is the easiest breeding method and the most popular. Despite its simplicity, several important rules must be followed for successful rooting of plants. We talk about this method in as much detail as possible in a separate article. There you will find answers to many popular questions: which leaf to choose, when to cut, what is better to use for rooting - water or soil, how long it will take for the roots and how quickly you can get a flowering plant.
Breeding cenopoly seeds is not difficult, but painstaking. It is necessary:
If, when growing violets with seeds, the daughter plant is better in quality than the parents, subsequent reproduction should be vegetative.