Unlike vegetables and berry crops, growing greenery is not a troublesome and enjoyable activity at all. And if you know how to plant spinach correctly, then you can harvest it almost all year round.
Spinach is a cold-resistant crop and even recovers after light frosts, so it can be grown not only in summer. Still spinach is a rather early ripening greens and appears one of the first on our table in May, and if it is planted with seedlings, then even earlier. In addition, spinach grows well next to most garden plantings, which means there is a place for it in any area.
Spinach is a cold-resistant crop and even recovers from light frosts
A small overview of popular varieties:
Spinach is best sown in sunny areas. Any soil is suitable, the only exception is clayey and with an increased level of acidity. Regarding humidity, regular watering is necessary, it is on this that the yield of spinach beds often depends.
Now, having decided on the basic growing conditions, it is worth considering several methods: planting seedlings, sowing in open ground in early spring or before winter.
Video about properties and cultivation
Early greens will be provided by a seedling method of growing. To do this, in late March and early April, spinach seeds are sown in boxes, plastic or paper cups filled with prepared soil. The seeds are not deeply buried; it is enough to cover them with 1 cm of moist soil and compact it a little so that the emerging roots will be easier to consolidate in the ground. After that, it is recommended to cover the containers with a transparent film or a piece of glass and put them in a warm place (for example, on a radiator) so that the "greenhouse" climate accelerates germination of seedlings.
Early greens will be provided by the seedling method of growing
After the appearance of the first shoots, the shelter is removed, and the seedlings are rearranged to the southern or southeastern window sill, providing maximum illumination. Given the tolerance of spinach to the cold, it can be grown on a loggia, balcony or veranda, which is especially convenient if all the windows are already occupied by growing peppers, tomatoes and eggplants. Just remember to water your crops regularly.
Seedlings are planted in open ground when the soil warms up a little and the sun begins to warm up. After transplanting and watering, you can put arcs on top and cover the bed with non-woven agrofibre in order to protect the transplanted plants from intense sunlight at first and somehow "smooth out" night and day changes in air temperature.
Sowing spinach seeds in greenhouses is considered the best option for getting early greens. In this case, the sowing time depends on several indicators, including:
On spring sunny days in glass greenhouses, the air warms up faster and keeps the temperature longer at night
Usually, work in greenhouses begins if the air in it warms up enough during the daytime. For spinach germination, such conditions are quite suitable. In addition, before sowing the hole, it is recommended to generously pour hot water, wait until it is completely absorbed, sow seeds and cover with a 1.5-2 cm layer of soil. From above, the rows are covered with a piece of agrofibre, which will help to maintain both heat and the necessary moisture level. After the appearance of the first shoots, the shelter is removed. Work in the open field is carried out in a similar way.
In early spring, spinach seeds are sown in the garden, at the same time as planting radishes, lettuce and onions on greens. In this growing method, moisture is the key to a successful harvest. Therefore, even during sowing, the grooves or holes are pre-watered, especially if the soil is dry. This will help to soften the rather dense shell of the seed faster, and subsequently provide the forming plants with moisture. When the spinach is already ripe, it needs frequent watering, especially on warm and sunny days.
Spinach usually sprouts together and at the same time, so if you want to extend its harvest period, sow it gradually, at intervals of 7-10 days. So you will have young greens for a long time. If you need to save space on the site, spinach can be sown as a thickener, for example, between beans, tomatoes, dill, radishes or carrots. Thus, while the main crops are growing, you will already have harvested spinach.
Video about growing spinach, lettuce and basil
Experienced gardeners know how many worries spring brings, so they try to do some work since autumn. So, many cold-resistant crops can be sown podzima, for example, carrots, garlic, radishes, sorrel and, of course, spinach. The advantages of such plantings are obvious: there is enough time in the fall, there is a lot of free space on the site, and most importantly, the soil is saturated with moisture both during sowing and during the period of spring growth.
Many people worry that the sprouted green shoots may die in winter, but fears are in vain - as soon as the snow melts and the April sun warms up in spring, the planting of spinach will quickly recover and delight you with the first greens from your own garden.
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A simple and familiar vegetable zucchini has its own nuances of planting and care. Experienced gardeners have known them for a long time, and novice farmers have many questions. How to plant zucchini, where they grow better, what varieties to choose - these problems have to be solved before planting dates. An unpretentious vegetable gives good germination and a bountiful harvest. You can plant it with seeds or seedlings, the main thing is to do it on time and properly prepare the bed.
Basil is an annual ornamental plant rich in carotene, vitamin C and essential oils, thanks to which the leaves and flowers exude a special spicy aroma. The culture is easily propagated by seed, but for its cultivation you need to know when to sow basil for seedlings, how to properly care for the seedlings and under what conditions they can be sown in open ground.
The content of the article:
It is recommended to plant basil seedlings when good seed is needed. In plants grown in this way, the seeds are fully ripe and can be harvested for the next season. Seed sowing is also possible directly in the garden, but it is suitable only for growing ornamental vegetation and obtaining spicy greens.
It is better to start the process of growing basil from seeds from the first days of April. For future seedlings, they take wooden boxes and fill them with a planting mixture prepared from humus, peat and garden soil, mixed in equal parts. The substrate for growing basil from seeds is sprayed with a nutrient solution including potassium chloride, potassium sulfate, urea, superphosphate (half a teaspoon each) and 5 liters of settled water. Basil should be sown on seedlings when the substrate is well warmed up, fertilized and moist. Seeds are sifted over its surface and sprinkled on top with a layer of soil mixture. The box is covered with a transparent film or glass, and then placed in a bright and warm place.
The procedure for planting basil on seedlings is not complicated, but the process of growing it is a little troublesome and should be paid attention to. To obtain strong and undamaged shoots, the cultivation of basil through seedlings should take place under a properly organized regime, both temperature and watering. The plant is very demanding on heat, so the box with seeds should be in a warm room, preferably heated, where the temperature is stable and does not drop below 20 ° C. Watering the seeds for growing basil through the seedlings is carried out as the top layer of the substrate dries, preventing it from drying out ...
If the conditions for planting basil on seedlings are suitable, then on the 7th or 8th day you can expect the emergence of seedlings. They do not need special care - it is enough for them to provide timely watering and good lighting.
When growing basil seedlings, it is important that the soil does not dry out, you should also not allow it to become waterlogged, since young sprouts can be struck by a black leg and even die. If, nevertheless, basil on seedlings is sick with a black leg, it should be immediately treated with a solution of copper sulfate prepared from a teaspoon of copper sulfate and 2 liters of water.
Now let's look at how to grow basil from the resulting seedlings. It must be planted in the ground not earlier than the beginning of July, since immature plants do not tolerate a drop in temperature and can die from frost. Planting seedlings, as well as sowing basil for seedlings, is carried out in a nutritious soil substrate. For young plants, a mixture made from equal parts of compost, peat and humus is perfect.
When basil is planted in the ground, a distance of 28-30 cm is left between the ridges, and 18-20 cm between adjacent shoots. At this distance, the plants will develop better, be well lit and ventilated. After planting, the seedlings are thoroughly watered, preferably with warm and settled water and covered with a film every evening for 2 weeks. It will protect fragile heat-loving plants from low temperatures and will not let them die. We looked at how to sow basil for seedlings in the conditions of home cultivation, and now we will learn how to get such a spice in our country house.
Basil cultivation in suburban areas is carried out mainly to obtain spicy aromatic herbs. To do this, you do not need to burden yourself with taking care of the seedlings and you can immediately sow the seeds in the ridges, placing them at a distance of 35-40 cm. Basil sowing for seedlings is mainly resorted to by those summer residents who want to get their seeds for the future period.
To grow a beautiful spicy bush, you need to know when to plant basil outdoors. And it is better to do this at the beginning of summer, when the length of the day is long and constant heat comes. Before planting basil seeds in the ground, prepare it. The top layer of the earth is dug up and well loosened. Be sure to remove weeds before planting basil seeds. This is due to the fact that plant seeds sprout for a long time and it will be difficult for young growth to break through the weeds, from which they may die. The area planted with basil is watered periodically.
Basil can be grown in the country, both traditional and hybrid varieties. In our latitudes, such varieties as "Anisovy" and "Lemon" have taken root well. In these plant species, the leaves have a more intense aroma, so summer residents are happy to grow them for spicy mixtures and as an additive to tea.
Among the varieties of basil, there are plants with light green (Spoon-shaped variety), brownish (Baku variety) and bluish (Yerevan variety) leaf color. Violet basil has become widespread among summer residents, cultivation from the seeds of which is carried out mainly through seedlings. The fact is that the seeds of this type of plant are very small and in the soil they easily die from drought or waterlogging of the soil. Cultivation from purple basil seeds is carried out in stages: first, the seeds are germinated, then they are dived and grown to full-fledged seedlings in a greenhouse, and only then are planted on the site. Purple basil loves fertile soils and organic fertilizers. If you do not create the proper growing conditions for it, then as a result the plant will have tough leaves and lose its special aroma.
It is not enough just to know how to plant basil on seedlings, you also need to know how to care for it. Caring for a spicy plant comes down to:
Watering should be carried out as the soil layer dries up, and top dressing should be done every 25-30 days, using nitrogen fertilizer for such purposes, since it stimulates the growth of green mass. The first feeding of the basil is carried out on the 12th day after planting the seedlings in open ground. Plants are fed with nitrophos (2 tablespoons per 12 liters of water), consuming approximately 3.5-4 liters per 1 m2.
Loosening of the soil should be carried out quite often, especially during the growing season, and weeding - as needed. After such procedures, the plants are well watered. Several times per season, the emerging peduncles and tops of the shoots are removed. This ensures good branching of the basil and the formation of a beautiful bush.
To get a high and high-quality crop of cucumbers when planted in open ground, you must adhere to certain rules for the preparation and planting of seeds. There are several such steps that should be studied before embarking on the planting procedure.
Due to the good germination of this culture, many gardeners sow dry seeds on the site.
Important! Cucumber seeds can be stored for 5-6 years, and they do not lose their germination. If the selection of seeds was carried out independently, then it is best to sow them after 3-4 years of storage.
In order to completely eliminate the risk of non-germination of seeds, sometimes a special treatment is carried out before the very beginning of sowing.
Interesting! Today, manufacturers produce coated or glazed cucumber seeds that have already been properly processed in production. Such material can be sown without preliminary preparation directly into the ground under the open sky.
Advice! Potassium permanganate is a weak and ineffective dressing agent. It is better to use a solution of brilliant green. To prepare it, add 1 ml of 1% brilliant green solution to 100 ml of water.
Many vegetable growers believe that the most effective method of preparing seeds for sowing in open ground is to soak them with germination. However, before germination, it is still recommended to treat the seeds with disinfectants.
In order to germinate cucumber seeds, you must:
Gardeners who grow cucumbers in areas with a cold climate, before planting seeds, first harden them. For this procedure, you can take dry or already germinated seeds. They are wrapped in a damp cloth and left in the refrigerator for 4-5 days. After that, the seeds are planted in open ground.
Cucumbers are a vegetable that loves warmth, light and moisture. Therefore, choosing a place for sowing cucumbers must be carefully and responsibly. Even with a slight decrease in temperature and shade, the yield will decrease. Although today there are already varieties of relatively shade-tolerant and bee-pollinated, as well as cold-resistant self-pollinated hybrids.
In addition, the cucumber beds must be positioned taking into account the rules of crop rotation.
Cucumbers grow best in areas where crops such as pepper, cabbage, onion and garlic... Cucumbers are also allowed to be planted among legumes, tomatoes, corn and greens.
Important! It should be remembered that you cannot sow cucumber seeds on those plots of land where melons and gourds were previously grown (pumpkins, zucchini, squash, melons, watermelons).
The fact is that cucumbers suffer from the same diseases as these crops. If the previous plants were infected in this area, then there is a risk of getting sick and the cucumbers that were planted in this place.
The highest yields of cucumbers will give those bushes that are grown on fertile lands. It is even better if it is light and fluffy with neutral acidity. The area for planting cucumbers is usually prepared in the fall after the end of the harvest.
However, soil preparation is allowed in the spring. At this time, you need to carefully dig up the area allocated for sowing cucumber seeds and add the necessary nutrients. This procedure is done 14-30 days before planting seeds in open ground.
Interesting! Cucumbers love dung.
Also, you can apply another method for feeding the soil:
Organic or mineral fertilizers can be applied during planting directly into the prepared holes:
Important! Organic and mineral fertilizers applied in a timely manner to the soil will make it loose. The land will be able to be significantly enriched with nutrients that contribute to the active development of this crop with the further receipt of a rich harvest.
When applying mineral fertilizers, a set of nutrients is used. So, you can use a drug such as nitroammofoska, which contains 16% nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (2 tablespoons per 1 sq. M).
You can enter into the soil separately different fertilizers in the amount of 2 tbsp. spoons per 1 sq. m of garden area:
Advice! It is better to apply phosphorus and potash agents in the fall, so that they can be well absorbed into the ground by spring. Nitrogen fertilizers that dissolve quickly can be applied in the spring.
Despite the fact that the soil on the site was well fed, it should continue to be fertilized during the growing season, and often. Minerals should be applied on time during the entire fruiting period of cucumbers.
Important! When planting, an excess amount of fertilizer must not be applied, as this can lead to the death of the roots, and therefore the entire plant.
Plot owners rarely think that problems with growing crops begin with improper planting. We've put together tried-and-true methods of planting seedlings for you that are guaranteed to help you get a bountiful harvest.
What could be more amazing than gorgeous and colorful flowers that have grown from a few small seeds? Plus, it's much cheaper than purchase of seedlings.
Many growers don't even try sow seeds, considering it a difficult and thankless task, which is unlikely to bring results. Others are afraid that the plants will not germinate and the seedlings will not rise and die. Well, this happens even with experienced growers. However, a few simple rules can help you avoid becoming a seedling specialist.
There are four main methods of sowing flower seeds for seedlings:
Planting in containers you can start in late February - early March. For each specific type of plant, you should choose your own method (we will talk about this below).
We have not mentioned greenhouse - it is certainly suitable for growing flower seedlings, but it is not a necessary component of their successful growth. A window sill, which receives enough heat and sunlight, completely replaces a small greenhouse.
You can start germinating seeds in a window, and then move the young plants to the open air. Any plastic wrap or cap available at any garden store will work as a "home" for them. Ideally, you should combine both methods - greenhouse and "home".
For a successful sowing of seeds, you will need:
You will also need a special soil for growing seedlings of your chosen crop, or, as a last resort, universal substrate... But it's better to have both. Seeds of capricious and fastidious flowers should be sown in specially prepared soil. For everyone else, universal store soil will do.
All seeds - even the hardiest ones - require little heat to germinate and enough light (but not direct sunlight) after they emerge. A good place to grow seedlings is a window sill with a window curtained with thin tulle.
You shouldn't grow more plants than you can plant in your garden. Some sachets contain over a hundred seeds. Do you really need, for example, a hundred asters, petunias or marigolds? Of course, you should sow a little more seeds, taking into account possible losses, but not more than a quarter of the estimated volume.
This method is best for medium-sized, pinhead-sized seeds (0.5-2 mm in diameter). They are small and easy to handle. Among flowers, seeds of large sizes are found, for example, in calendula and cosmos.
Step 1... Fill a small pot with soil and compost mixture to the brim, without tamping it or leaving any air pockets. Gently shake the pot by the base to distribute the mixture evenly.
Step 2... Take a second similar pot and tamp the filled mixture with its base until the surface is flat and uniform.
Step 3... Spread the seeds on top of the substrate. You can, of course, pour them out, but make sure that they are evenly distributed over the entire surface of the soil.
Step 4... Now pour a handful of vermiculite on top. The use of sifted soil is allowed, but it is not always sterile, so it is better to use vermiculite.
Step 5... Write on a small plate or tag the name and variety of the plant and the date you sowed it. If nothing comes up within 3 weeks, then something went wrong.
Plant name label
Step 6... Before watering, place the pot in a special tray and fill it with water so that the substrate gradually absorbs the water.
Do not water the soil in the pot from above. Together with the water, the seeds will go deep into the soil and may not germinate.
Step 7... "Pack" the pot in a clear plastic bag and place it on a windowsill out of direct sunlight. Check every three days for seedlings.
Step 8... As soon as the seedlings are visible, remove the plastic bag and let the seedlings grow as usual for 1-2 weeks, periodically turning the pot to the light on different sides.
Some seeds are so small that they look more like dust particles or pollen (for example, seeds tobacco, lobelia and petunias). It is quite difficult to sow them evenly, but there are a couple of tricks that will help you get great results.
Step 1... Fill a small pot (7 cm in diameter) with a mixture of soil and compost and shake it lightly by the base to settle.
A mixture of soil and compost
Step 2... Tamp the composition using a second similar pot as in the first method described.
Step 3... Carefully open the seed bag and pour the amount you want onto your hand.
Step 4... Now pour some dry sand into your palm and mix it thoroughly with the seeds.
Step 5... Spread the mixture evenly over the surface of the soil - the sand will help you see the boundaries of the area you have covered.
When sowing small seeds, never sprinkle them with soil or vermiculite.
Step 6... Write the name of the plant, variety and sowing date on the label.
Step 7... Place the pot on a tray and fill it with water to the brim. The water will be absorbed gradually by the composition, so do not "rain" or pour the seeds from above.
Step 8... Use a spray bottle to spray the surface of the soil with a solution of any fungicide that will prevent infections.
Step 9... Place the pot in a mini greenhouse or cover it with cellophane and place it on a well-lit windowsill. After a few days, the seeds will sprout and you can remove the "shell" or start airing the mini-greenhouse.
Honeycomb trays are great for large seeds (2 mm or more in diameter), as this allows you to freely plant one seed in one cell. It is best to use a universal soil as a substrate, since it is more fibrous and better retains moisture.
Step 1... Sift the soil through a coarse mesh sieve and fill all the cells with it. Shake the tray lightly to distribute the substrate evenly.
Step 2... Use your finger to poke shallow holes in each soil-filled cell. This is necessary for small seeds like calendula, and larger ones can simply be placed on top.
Step 3... Pour the required amount of seeds into the palm of your hand.
Step 4... Gently dip one seed into each cell or spread it over the surface.
Filling the cells with seeds
Step 5... Now sift a small amount of compost over the cells to cover the seeds with a thin layer of fertilizer.
Secondary screening of soil
Step 6... Lightly tamp the compost with the palm of your hand, tapping lightly on each cell from the top.
Step 7... Write on the labels what was sown, the variety and the date, and stick the labels into the seed tray. If desired, you can label each cell (if they were sown with different plants).
Step 8... Place the tray of cells in a basin filled with 1 inch of water. Do not water the cells from the top.
Step 9... Place the tray on a preheated propagator or in a special greenhouse for seedlings.
Step 10... Place the tray in a bright, warm environment, such as a greenhouse or greenhouse. However, any window sill, on which sunlight falls, will do.
The seedlings will look something like this:
When growing a large number of medium-sized seeds (0.5-2 mm), sometimes a tray that is half the size of the one we sowed with the previous method is sufficient.
Step 1... Fill your tray with a compost-soil mixture, or place some all-purpose soil on the bottom, and add the nutrient mixture on top so that it covers an even layer 1-1.5 cm thick. The effectiveness will be about the same.
Step 2... Gently tap the tray on any hard surface and level the substrate until the mixture is smooth.
Step 3... Time to sow the seeds. For example, delphiniums sow evenly over the entire surface at a distance of about 1 cm from each other.
Step 4... Sift a small amount of fertile soil through a sieve and sprinkle the seeds on them so that they are not visible.
Step 5... Lightly tamp the top layer by tapping with your palm or using a second similar tray.
Step 6... Make a plate with a short "biography" of the plant - name, variety, sowing date.
Step 7... In this case, irrigation is done from above, for example, using a simple watering can. Allow excess water to drain after watering.
Step 8... In the final step, place the tray in a heated propagator or place it on a tray with a transparent lid. The option with a transparent plastic bag is also suitable, the main thing at the end is not to forget to put the seeds on a well-lit windowsill.
We hope these simple tips will help you achieve good results in growing flower seedlings and avoid wastage.With the right conditions and careful care, you have every chance of getting great results.
Growing periwinkle large Variegat from seeds is not a very popular method of breeding it. The plant will begin to bloom only 3 years after the seedlings are planted in the ground.
Before planting, the seeds of periwinkle variegated are rejected, discarding those that will definitely not germinate. They are soaked in a saline solution (a tablespoon for 0.5 liters of water). It takes 10-15 minutes for the seeds without embryos to float to the surface.
The second important stage of preparation is disinfection. Self-collected seeds are soaked in a fungicide of biological origin (Alirin-B, Maxim), diluted according to the instructions, for 15-20 minutes. For the same purpose, a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate is used, but then the processing time increases by 1.5-2 hours. If desired, a few drops of any biostimulant (Kornevin, Epin) are added to the liquid to accelerate seed germination.
For seedlings, the seeds of the periwinkle of the great Variegat are planted in the last days of March or in the first ten days of April:
The seedlings of periwinkle large Variegat are transferred to the ground in the first decade of May. Holes with an interval of 20-25 cm are dug so deep that an earthen ball with roots can fit in them. You can throw a handful of humus at the bottom. After planting, the plants are watered moderately. Do not deepen the root collar.
Spinach has a lot of enemies, and if the gardener does not respond to the threat in time, it can completely lose the crop. The main enemy is the ubiquitous aphid. It is not recommended to deal with it with chemicals, since many harmful substances can remain in the fleshy leaves.
Snails also do not mind, enjoy delicious leaves, in a few days with a large accumulation of pests, you can lose the entire crop. Simple traps will help here, which you can make yourself. To do this, take plastic bottles, cut off the bottom, and bury them in the beds with spinach, making sure that the edges of the trap do not rise above the surface of the ground. It remains to pour some beer into the trap in the evening, which will certainly attract pests. In the morning, you can harvest snails that could not get out of the plastic cup after the feast.
Of the diseases, powdery mildew can threaten spinach. You need to deal with it even when planting a plant - it is important to place the bushes at the required distance. A dense planting is the main cause of the onset of the disease. With a small infection, you can try to spray the spinach with whey or infusion of garlic (insist 100 grams of garlic in 3 liters of water for 2 days).
Root rot can also kill spinach. Measures that will help to avoid the disease are timely loosening of the soil, thinning of plantations. The use of chemicals is not recommended - if the disease cannot be avoided, the plant can no longer be saved.